Antigua Knows ‘Guat’s Up’
I can’t pinpoint when, precisely, I became obsessed with the idea of visiting Antigua, Guatemala, but I’m pretty sure it was due to enviable Instagram posts from globetrotting friends who had attended weddings at the destination over the years. I’m always curious about discovering more of Central America, a region I’ve unfortunately traveled less to than the rest of Latin America, so after several years of trying to concoct an excuse to get myself there, when an invitation to a friend’s wedding taking place in the Unesco World Heritage site arrived in the mail, it took all of about two minutes to RSVP with a resounding ‘YES’.
At a glance one might overlook Antigua as a travel spot, assuming it’s just another small town in Latin America with cobblestone streets and colorful, colonial facades. My husband, for one, required much convincing, citing the Caribbean island, also named Antigua, a more suitable vacation spot for us. While I won the discussion, his adamant reluctance put some pressure on me to make sure I proved him wrong.
Ironically enough, despite being one of Central America’s most frequented cities by foreigners, and one that is relatively easy to arrive to (just a 45 minute drive from Guatemala City, Guatemala’s capital, whose airport welcomes dozens of daily international flights), finding trustworthy travel recommendations online for anything from hotels and restaurants to activities and shopping, proved challenging.
I took to alternative measures to maximize our days there, and randomly reached out to an “insta friend”, Molly Berry, whose beautiful images of her daily life in the city were my inspiration for staying several days. Thanks to her tips combined with those of several Central American friends, we ended up with quite an extensive list of places to see (and eat), and not enough time. In any case, I wanted to contribute to the Internet world my list of highly suggested recommendations, which took quite an effort to compile.
To sum up the experience, Antigua encapsulates the colorful charm of a typical Latin American colonial town with an extensive offer of hotels and restaurants whose quality can compete with that of any international city. Due to the influx of expats taking up residence in Antigua, the culinary scene is quite global. While there are plenty of delicious (and inexpensive) options for typical Guatemalan cuisine, if gastronomy is your thing, there are enough options here for foodies to plan a trip focused entirely on food. (It’s what we pretty much unintentionally did.) There is also a big movement for fresh, farm to table food, even more so than some bigger cities in Latin America, which I was delighted to discover.
The beautiful thing is that all the foreigners who have set up shop here, have remained true to the local identity so the town boasts an authentic vibe. My suggestion would be to book enough days so that you can try a bit of everything the location has to offer. You can explore the town leisurely by foot in approximately two days, but it’s also worthwhile to plan excursions such as hiking up the active volcanoes, zip lining or taking a day trip to Lake Atitlan. While we only had time to stay in the old town and go the bon vivant route, reveling in delicious food and drinks, your hotel should be able to recommend and organize the best tours/excursions.
Weather is perfect, and safety is not an issue. Consider visiting during Semana Santa, since they are known for their beautiful street processions.
What to Eat?
Earth Lodge— An avocado farm and hostel style hotel just above Antigua, with breathtaking views of the city and volcanos. Consider this spot for breakfast or lunch, but be prepared for a short hike uphill.
Caoba Farms— A must. We came here three times during our trip, if that tells you anything. A beautiful, organic farm with a restaurant nestled in the center that serves all farm to table food. They're open Tuesday – Sunday for breakfast and lunch. Dinner is only available on Thursday night. There are happenings going on almost anytime you go, from live music to farmer’s markets or yoga classes on the weekends.
Sabe Rico— A great option for breakfast or lunch. Aside from delicious local cuisine, the gardens in the back invite you to linger around and order a few more coffees.
Tartines— Charming bistro with traditional French dishes, and an upstairs terrace that looks out onto the ruins of the Cathedral and the volcanoes from a distance.
Epicure— Restaurant and gourmet shop serving international fare. Make sure to sit in the back gardens.
Meson Panza Verde— Both a restaurant and a hotel. The restaurant, which we tried for dinner, is dreamy and romantic. It’s a more upscale option compared to most restaurants in Antigua.
Welten— We stumbled into this restaurant on our last night in Antigua, and were pleasantly surprised. The ambiance and decor is beautiful, with cozy booths in an outdoor garden and good food.
Bistrot Cinq— One of the more popular French restaurants. It has a lively ambiance for dinner, plus a notable selection of French wines.
Izakaya— We didn’t have a chance to try this spot, but it received rave reviews from other wedding guests.
Where to Stay?
We booked quite late, and it was Semana Santa, a popular week in Antigua, but were lucky enough to find a room at a charming and quaint boutique hotel called Los Olivos.
Other suggestions we received where guests and friends have stayed:
Convento de Las Capuchinas
Shopping
Hilosophy— Beautiful rugs, pillows, tablecloths, etc. made locally, but with a contemporary flair.
Nim Po’t— An artisanal market with all the locally made Guatemalan items and amazing vintage textiles under one roof. Located right by the famous yellow arch.
Doña María Gordillo— An old-fashioned candy shop for local treats. Try the canillitas.
La Tienda de Doña Gavi— A hole in the wall, with all natural and organic products made by the owner. They also sell really good homemade ice cream.
I Need Coffee…
Fat Cat Coffee House— They have two locations. We tried both, but the one inside Adra Hostel is definitely worth a visit.
Café Condesa— A cute, traditional café located right on the Parque Central plaza.
El Sereno’s terrace or Sky Bar are perfect for sundown cocktails.
The little wine bar under the famous yellow arch is cozy to enjoy a glass or two.
Unwind
Shakti Shala for yoga. While our trip was pretty short, we took a yoga class each morning, and it was the perfect way to start our days.