Bogota, Colombia
You know the saying, “the early bird catches the worm”? Well, when I moved to Bogota four years ago, my first discovery was that if you want to get the most out of this city, you’d better try your hardest to be that early bird. The sun rises at approximately 5:40 AM every day, and sets at precisely 6 PM (there is no Daylight Saving Time in Colombia), and so, one is most productive when their day starts early.
One of my favorite plans is waking up at 7 AM for a walk in Parque Virrey, in my neighborhood Chicó. Afterwards, I grab breakfast at Canasto, a charming restaurant with an outdoor terrace and a view of the park, which serves locally sourced organic food. My favorite dish is the avocado toast served on beetroot bread or the mango and pineapple bowl. Another option is hiking up to Montserrate with friends. While Monserrate is a tourist destination with a Catholic Sanctuary atop of the cerro, or hill, that is 3,152 m above sea level, the walk up is quite spectacular. To go back down, hop on the cable car to head straight to brunch. I’d suggest doing the latter midweek to avoid crowds. A decent brunch option is Casa Lelyte, which functions as a quaint, four bedroom boutique hotel for visitors, an art gallery for local artists who can exhibit their pieces throughout the house, as well as a bar and gourmet vegetarian restaurant on the first floor. The retro interior design by architect Pedro Olarte is one of the restaurant's best treats.
For non-early birds, an excellent plan is heading out to La Candelaria late morning. It’s my go-to for cultural enrichment. This is where the Plaza de Bolivar is located, as well as Casa Nariño, the presidential palace. Here you’ll find historical buildings such as Jorge Eliécer Gaitán Municipal Theater, where the International Jazz Festival is held, or the Teatro Colón, Colombia’s national theater, where you can catch one of the many musicals, operas or ballets offered at any given time of year. You can also visit museums such as the MAMBO (Museo de Arte Moderno Bogota), the Museo de Oro or the Museo Botero. After your cultural tour of choice, head to Prudencia for lunch (reservations are a must). The brainchild of couple Mario Rosero and Meghan Flanigan, they have an itinerant menu each week depending on the ingredients sourced from markets and providers. Post-feast, I recommend shopping for local design and souvenirs at Casa Cicuta, which houses designers such as Olga Piedrahita and the contemporary artesanías boutique, Taller Vivo. Finish the day off with a drink at Padre, a cozy and cool restaurant and bar.
Another (perhaps less intense) cultural plan is spending the afternoon gallery-hopping in the Macarena neighborhood (NC Arte and Espacio El Dorado are personal favorites), then book lunch at Tábula (one of Anthony Bourdain’s favorites), Leo by renown Colombian chef, Leo Espinosa, or Donostia for Spanish tapas and wine.
If plan: no plan is your travel itinerary of preference, below is a list of #placesyoushouldknow.
Where to Stay?
Bogotá surprisingly is lacking on the hotel front, particularly in boutique options. Chain hotels include the following:
Four Seasons Casa Medina (Chapinero neighborhood)
Four Seasons Bogota (Chico neighborhood)
EK Hotel— Simple, yet ideal for business travelers and very central.
In the historical center there is a hotel called Hotel de la Opera. I’ve never been there, but have heard good things.
Design hotels include BOG Hotel and Click Clack
For boutique options, there is Casa Legado and Casa Lelyte.
Where to Eat?
All those mentioned above (Prudencia, Padre, Tábula, Canasto, Casa Lelyte, Leo and Donostia), plus…
Cafe Bar Universal— An oasis in the heart of Chapinero Alto, with an international cuisine. Nice for dinner, cute bar for drinks.
Villanos en Bermudas— A culinary project imagined by two “villains”, an Argentinean (Nicolás López) and a Mexican (Sergio Meza). Each day they offer a set menu inspired by the ingredients they can source from the market that AM. Important to reserve before.
El Chato— Chef Alvaro Clavijo never disappoints. Ask for a seat at his table on the second floor. Intimate ambiance perfect for dinner.
Gitane— Nice option for lunch, but make reservations.
Juana la Loca—Delicious cuisine, but also its minimalist interior by Brazilian architect Isay Weinfeld, is a feast for the eyes.
Osaka— Best place for Peruvian-Asian fusion.
Pajares Salinas— A cachaco classic. For locals, lunches often lead into dinner here.
El Bandido Bistro— Outdoor terrace and live music in the afternoons. Perfect for sunny days with warmer weather.
Drinks & Dancing
Black Bear— 1920s vibe with good cocktails.
Bar Enano— A cozy speakeasy behind El Bandido Bistro. Ideal for a romantic rendezvous.
Apache— Great for sundown cocktails.
El Bembé— A Cuban restaurant and bar in La Macarena where you can brush up on your salsa skills
Meet Me for Breakfast /I Need Coffee…
Luzia— Excellent cappuccinos and pain au chocolat, plus good service.
Les Amis— Cozy coffee shop with delicious pastries to meet with a friend or for working out of the office.
Make-Out— Casual and vegan.
Masa— Quick, easy and scrumptious. Also, kid-friendly.
Galleries
Casa Amaral (By appointment only)
Local Design
Calle de Anticuarios— Previously this street was lined exclusively with antique stores, hence its name. Today, while some are still standing, the protagonists are local designers, such as Pepa Pombo, Miscelánea Popular by Jorge Lizarazo, or concept stores such as ST. DOM and Casa Santamaria. Here you’ll also find a few restaurants (El Bandido Bistro) and cafés.
Silvia Tcherassi, Amelia Toro and swimwear brand Verdelimon have their stand alone boutiques nearby the mall Centro Comercial Andino.
At El Retiro mall, you can find quite a few Colombian favorites like Johanna Ortiz, Carlo Carrizosa, Ballen Pellettiere and Mercedes Salazar, amongst others.
Olga Piedrahita— A celebrated Colombian designer whose boutique is always a multisensory experience, as she often invites artists to collaborate and intervene her space.
Escenario Villegas— A new type of concept store imagined by Laura Villegas, daughter of the founders of Editores Villegas, a recognized Colombian publisher specialized in coffee table books. The store consists of a coffee shop, bookstore and boutique-gallery, and Laura is always searching for chic, undiscovered talent in fashion and decor.
Loto del Sur— Soaps, candles, creams and more made of natural botanicals found in this part of the world. Because the founder is also an architect, each boutique is a visual experience.
Artesanías de Colombia— Perfect stop for last minute souvenirs, e.g. mochilas, el sombrero vueltiao, etc.
Also, on Sundays, Usaquén has an outdoor market where you can treasure hunt for artesanías, local coffee and souvenirs to take home. Afterwards you can have lunch at one of the many restaurants in the area.
Unique Experiences
Paloquemao— A local flower and fruit market. Many may not be aware that Colombia is home to an exotic variety of flowers, which they then ship all over the world. This market gives you a taste of the country’s natural richness. Best to arrive early for the freshest produce (they open at 4:30 AM). You can try the typical pan de bono with tinto for breakfast here. Fun fact: The Italian brand Marni was inspired by this market when creating the “Marni Mercado de Paloquemao” at the Salone de Mobile in 2015.
Sightseeing
Aside from those already mentioned above (Montserrate, La Candelaria, Museo de Oro, Museo Botero, MAMBO), if you’re an architecture or book aficionado, I highly recommend visiting the Biblioteca Virgilio Barco by famed architect Rogelio Salmona. If the weather is nice, try a picnic at the Parque Virgilio Barco, which surrounds the library.