Cartagena de Indias, Colombia
Fun fact— I met my husband in Cartagena. It was on my first trip ever to Colombia, a work trip. We met through the colleague I was traveling with at the time. He had just moved there from Europe, where they had studied together in Switzerland. I’ll spare you the details, but there’s a reason why the word romantic often follows any mention of Cartagena. I’ll fill you in on another take-away I have from that first trip— Cartagena is best experienced with a local. If you ever have the opportunity to visit Cartagena with a Colombian, don’t pass it up (I actually almost did, imagine that). Not only because Colombians are arguably the best hosts I’ve ever come across, but also because you’ll be privy to insider access of some of the most beautiful private homes, both in the old town and on the islands off the coast of the city. If you haven’t received such an invitation yet, though, here are my recommendations compiled after several years and various trips to “La Fantástica”.
Where to Stay?
I suggest staying inside the old town, also known as la Ciudad Amurallada, or in the Getsemani neighborhood, which is just adjacent. It’s the best way to ensure a truly authentic experience, and also a more efficient stay with everything of interest just a few steps or walkable blocks away. Here you’ll find a bevy of hotels to choose from, most are boutique, with the exception of Sofitel Santa Clara and Hotel Charleston Santa Teresa. These are great options if you’re looking for all the comforts of a larger, well-equipped hotel. Originally a convent, Sofitel Santa Clara’s architecture is a point of interest. Outside of its hotel service, it’s known for its courtyard restaurant, El Claustro, which is ideal for dinner. Inside Hotel Charlston Santa Teresa is Harry’s Cartagena, a favorite restaurant among locals by renown Colombian chef, Harry Sasson.
As for boutique hotels, my favorites below:
Casa San Agustin— A chic and relaxing oasis, located in the heart of the old town. Also, an idyllic place to meet for pre-dinner drinks.
La Passion— The most charming boutique hotel owned by a French man who fell in love with Cartagena. His European taste is evident in each of the 12 rooms, distinctively decorated with a certain je ne sais quoi.
If on a budget or traveling with a large group, there are also great Airbnb options. Link to a few below:
Red Palm House / Casa Tucán / Casa del Colegio / Casa Piña
What to Eat?
La Vitrola— A Cartagena staple, you cannot visit the city without eating here. It’s a good option for either lunch or dinner, though the evenings are the liveliest and a great way to get the night started. My favorite dish is the Ropa Vieja. I highly suggest making reservations in advance.
Don Juan— Best known for its seafood, Don Juan is also an institution in Cartagena.
Juan del Mar— A lively, casual, mostly seafood restaurant on the Plaza San Diego. Great for people watching. He also has a famous pizzeria known for late night munchies.
Carmen— Carmen is probably one of Medellin’s most famous chefs. A few years ago, she brought her delicious cuisine to Cartagena, where she’s been equally successful.
Epoca— Because sometimes you just need a good coffee shop.
Celele— Located in the up and coming Getsemani neighborhood, a project imagined by Proyecto Caribe, which focuses on contemporary cuisine inspired by the country’s biodiversity. One of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants.
La Cevicheria— A local favorite for the freshest ceviche in town. One of Anthony Bourdain’s favorites.
Di Silvio Trattoria— A rustic trattoria in Getsemani with delicious pizza.
La Mulata— For a typical experience with a set daily menu lunch.
Andante Allegro Vivace— Considered by some as the best Italian restaurant in Cartagena. Disclaimer: I’ve never been, but I fully trust the locals who recommend it.
La Paletteria— A Cartagena institution. Cool down with a popsicle as you tour the old town. Choose from endless flavor options made freshly with Colombia’s dozens of exotic fruits.
Let’s Go Dancing!
Quiebracanto— For an authentic salsa dancing experience. (FYI, where my now husband first asked me to dance)
Café Havana— A classic. While more touristic than Quiebracanto, it’s a must visit for all first timers.
El Barón— My personal favorite, an intimate cocktail bar on Plaza San Pedro Claver, just in front of a historic church. I suggest taking a seat outside on the plaza, where there’s always a refreshing breeze and great people watching.
Other fun bars include La Movida, La Jugada, Alquímico and Donde Fidel.
Shopping
St. Dom— Your one-stop-shop for carefully curated upscale Colombian design.
Casa Chiqui— The eclectic bazaar-like shop by Colombian tastemaker, Chiqui Echavarría. Here you’ll find unique home decor pieces from around the world all handpicked by Chiqui, who is known for her impeccable taste in interior design, as well as a selection of resort inspired clothing and accessories from local and Latin designers. Chiqui also has her own line of coveted accessories handmade in Colombia.
Artesanías de Colombia— Great for last minute souvenirs.
Onda de Mar— In case you forgot your bathing suit or cover up at home.
Mercedes Salazar— For fun accessories to take back home, such as jewelry or straw purses.
Martin Pescador— One of the few menswear designers. The go-to shop for men’s resortwear.
Azulu— Trendy, affordable Colombian brand.
Loto del Sur— Soaps, candles, creams and more made from natural botanicals found in Latin America.
Artesanías Hnos. Diaz— A tiny hole in the wall, nothing fancy, but good and well-priced artesanías.
Johanna Ortiz and Silvia Tcherassi have their stand alone boutiques in Cartagena, as well.
Sightseeing and Expeditions
After a few days in the old town, you’ll want to escape to the islands for some breezier weather and a refreshing ocean swim.
Through your hotel, you can organize a day trip to Isla Rosarios or Barú. If you’re with a group, a few idyllic island destinations available for rental (with catering and service staff included) include Isla Rosa, Hippie Beach, Isla Pelicano, Isla Matamba and Peñón de las Hadas.
Hotel options on las islas are few, but a good option is Hotel Las Islas by Aviatur.
Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas— The fortress and castle built by the Spanish as protection from enemy attacks during the colonial era is a popular location for weddings and events, but can be toured during the day.
Museo de la Inquisición for history buffs.
Aviario Nacional de Colombia— You might not know this, but Colombia has many things, including the largest variety of bird life in the world. For instagrammers, this aviary is most known for its tropical pink flamingos.