Isla Viveros, Pearl Islands, Panama

What Panama City lacks in beaches, it makes up for in islands that exist just off the coast of the city, anywhere from a one to three hour boat ride away. With Isla Contadora being the most recognized as a locals weekend getaway, there are quite a few hidden gems to discover. One of these is Isla Viveros, a part of the Pearl Islands archipelago.

Here’s the short story behind Isla Viveros— a group of developers planned to build a residential development on this vacant island with the idea of converting it into another option for locals and tourists alike to vacation. Several people bought slots of land, but for many reasons, today the project has yet to come into fruition. A few, and I mean, very few, of the early land purchasers decided to go ahead and build their homes anyway. One such residence belongs to French couple, Sylvie and Pascal. Here they’ve set up their permanent residence, as well as their business. Las Perlas Residences consists of two fully furnished villas, Las Ballenas and La Casa Rosada, which one can rent entirely or by room, with all meals and drinks included, but FYI— this is not an all-inclusive. It’s more a tropical version of a bed and breakfast yet with the most privileged of views and service.

Sylvie and Pascal used to own a vineyard that produced champagne in the south of France. When they sold it, they decided to take their earnings and set up shop in Panama, along with their children. It’s when they became empty nesters that they decided to semi-retire to island life and start this venture. They are your exclusive hosts throughout the stay— Sylvie cooks and Pascal serves the drinks. This sounds simple, but the reality is I think I had the best meals of my life on that island. Think Michelin level French cuisine, though she serves up quite intricate international dishes, as well. And what’s even more amazing, is they have their own garden where many of their ingredients come from, plus Sylvie bakes their own bread. As for the spirits selection, as any respectable French family would, they boast an impressive list of wine and champagne, as well as any hard liquor you might want. 

All this service, plus private access to a beach you pretty much have all to yourself. For that matter, it’s safe to say, you might even have the entire island almost to yourself at any given moment.

We celebrated my 34th birthday here. We, meaning my husband, in-laws and myself. I’ll admit I was initially skeptical about complete isolation since I’m really into celebrating birthdays, but it turned out to be the best plan in recent years. 

Pascal took us out on a boat tour around the Pearl Islands archipelago one day, which was breathtaking, but for the rest of our stay we opted for lingering around, reading on the beach or in the garden, and swimming in the ocean. In the afternoons we did stand-up paddle board and took a walk around the island or down the extended shore. The couple can also arrange for fishing trips with picnic included, if that’s your thing.

This is not a city guide, but I’m sharing this tip because it’s the type of place that requires a word-of-mouth recommendation. We heard about it through French friends living in Panama, which is what lured us in, because pictures on the internet simply will not do it. This was luxury in its simplest form. No frills, just nature, privacy, delicious food, excellent service and good company.

Oh, and we stayed in Casa Ballenas, which I would recommend for its direct access to the beach.