Mexico City, Mexico
Go big or go home, they said. My first residence as an American expat in Latin America was Mexico City. With over 20 million inhabitants, it’s the most populated capital in the region and the fifth in the world. The experience of moving to a new country, and a megalopolis at that, was both exhilarating and terrifying, yet I was enamored from the start. Those first few months, I remember thinking, “I could get addicted to this feeling of moving to a new city.” The sensation, in one word, was thrilling. Each sound, scent and structure inspired me. I said yes to every invitation, despite my often crippling shyness, forcing me out of my comfort zone, and each day, revealing new layers of myself, to myself. To say I grew as a person while living in Mexico is an understatement. Now that I’ve traveled extensively throughout the region though, I’ll tell you the truth: Mexico City is magic. Not all cities can boast its capacity to instantly charm, get under your skin and live permanently inside of you.
It was my work in the fashion industry that brought me here, which meant I had a privileged welcoming from the start, complete with exclusive access to restaurant openings, hidden art galleries, designers to meet and artists to collect. While living there, I was well-versed on every of-the-moment creative venture to know.
That being said, as the mega city it is, projects and businesses are continuously sprouting up, while others are shutting down. With this in mind, I’ve decided to limit my list to tried and true staples that have withstood the test of time. If you haven’t visited these places, then you don’t really know Mexico.
Since CDMX, or DF as I still prefer to call it, is such a monstrous city with notorious traffic, it’s ideal to plan by neighborhood to make the most of your time there.
POLANCO
I lived in Polanco, so I’ll start here. Both a residential (mostly apartments) and commercial neighborhood, it is considered posh or fresa in local lingo. Mostly inhabited by expats, singles or recently married Mexican couples given its centrality relative to most neighborhoods and its walkability. For that same reason, many hotels are located here such as JW Marriott, W Hotel, Hyatt Polanco and boutique hotels like Las Alcobas, Habita or Busue.
Start your day early with breakfast at Eno or grab a quick concha with nata at Maque, then head for a walk through the Bosque de Chapultepec, one of the largest parks in the Western Hemisphere. If you’re feeling ambitious, you can even take a hike up to the Castillo de Chapultepec, a strenuous trek, but worth it for the view. I suggest taking a tour of the castle. Built by the Spanish in 1785, it served as the residence for Emperor Maximilian I and several presidents, it houses Mexican history and art, plus a breathtaking view of the city. Grab a taxi to lunch in Polanquito, where you can have your pick of sidewalk cafes (see list below). If you can reserve in advance, Quintonil is perfect for a gourmet Mexican experience. Depending on if you still have energy, you can either stroll through Polanquito and up Masaryk for local shopping, or head to the Museo de Antropología and contemporary art museum Museo Rufino Tamayo for a cultural fix. Nearby, there is also the Museum of Modern Art. For dinner, book a table (way in advance) at Pujol, a must-try gastronomical experience by world renown Mexican chef Enrique Olvera.
Hotels in the area…
Those mentioned above (Las Alcobas, Habita, JW Marriott, W Hotel, Hyatt Polanco, Hotel Busue)
Restaurants in the area…
ROMA/CONDESA
Although these are two separate neighborhoods, they are adjacent to one another, and if you’re tight on time, the two can be enjoyed in one day. The former is my personal favorite for no particular reason other than the vibe. These would be considered the hipster neighborhoods in the city, where the creative crowds frequent. This plan, which is my favorite, is more of a relaxed, locals type day of leisurely strolling with no particular place to go. For breakfast, Lalo is always a good option. From there, just get lost in the streets. Along the way you’ll find plenty of shops to pop into and beautiful colonial architecture to photograph. Depending on what’s on exhibition, you might want to check out some of the galleries in these neighborhoods such as Arroniz, Galería OMR, Proyectos Monclova and Nordenhake. If you’re in the mood for a pre-lunch snack, try a duck taco from Pato Manila, a tiny restaurant just below the Nordenhake gallery. For lunch, the best option is always Contramar, but be sure to book in advance, and if you can, ask for a table outside. Lunches here often linger late into the afternoon, so plan for that if you’re in the mood for some sobremesa time. If you don’t have luck with reservations, other good options include Lardo or Meroma. After lunch, head to hotel Condesa DF for sundown drinks on their rooftop, just before dinner at Rosetta, a favorite by chef Elena Reygadas. Like Contramar, it’s pretty much a Mexican institution. And if that gets you in the mood for dancing, then finish your night off at Leonor.
Hotels in the area…
Restaurants in the area…
Those mentioned above, plus…
Take me for drinks and/or dancing….
Leonor (nightclub)
Café Paraiso (nightclub)
Páramo ( bar just above El Parnita)
Artemisia (bar)
Mama Rumba (kitschy, but fun Cuban salsa nightclub if you want to dance)
Baltra Bar (bar)
SAN ANGEL
Save this plan for Saturday. Head early to the Mercado del sábado (which is literally only open on Saturday) to find the best selection of typical artesanías. Once done treasure hunting, have lunch at San Angel Inn, a Carmelite monastery turned traditional Mexican restaurant loved by locals and tourists alike. If the weather permits, request a table on the interior patio. After lunch, check out the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo. Not to be confused with Casa Azul, this museum was actually Diego and Frida’s respective art studios where they worked and often lived. Nearby is the Museo Anahuacalli, a project built by Diego Rivera to house his collection of pre-Columbian figurines, which is an artwork in and of itself. In the mood for more shopping? Check out Tetetlan.
COYOACAN
Coyoacán is perfect for a cultural day. It’s a bit far from the trendier neighborhoods, but definitely a must visit. Plan for the morning to beat the crowds at Casa Azul or Museo Frida Kahlo, the house where Frida Kahlo grew up in — a Mexican landmark. (Note: Recommended to buy tickets prior to be sure to get in.) Afterwards, you’ll want to head for lunch at Los Danzantes for contemporary Mexican fare, but skip dessert and opt for ice cream at Los Famosos de Coyoacán, which you can enjoy along with the view of the Iglesia San Juan Batista just in front.
EL CENTRO
As with most Latin American capitals, no trip to the city is complete without a visit to its historial center. If you’re a history buff, it’s here where you can understand how the megalopolis all began dating back to the Aztec era. Just at the heart of Centro is the famous Plaza de Constitución, aka “El Zócalo”, which is the city’s main plaza. You may want to start your visit here. It is bordered with the National Palace, the Cathedral, as well as historic buildings, Antiguo Palacio de Ayuntamiento and Portal de Mercadores . On the corner is the Museo Templo Mayor, an archeological zone which houses what was the most important temple of Tenochtitlan. This plaza is where Mexicans celebrate their independence day on September 16 with “el Grito de Dolores” just in front of the Palacio Nacional.
Here you’ll find some of CDMX’s most important museums, such as San Ildefonso, Museo de Arte Popular, Museo Franz Mayer, MUNAL, Palacio de Bellas Artes, amongst others.
Landmark buildings, which were once mansions, include Casa de Azulejos (which today is a Sanborn’s) and Palacio de Iturbide. Also look out for the Palacio de Correos de México, Church of Santo Domingo, the Torre Latinoamericana, and the original Palacio de Hierro and original Liverpool department stores.
For lunch or drinks, stop in at hotel Downtown. A good restaurant option here is Azul Histórico. For a more typical experience, dine at Bar La Opera, the third oldest restaurant-bar in Mexico. A hidden gem for evening drinks is Bósforo, a tiny, clandestine bar with 40 different types of mezcal (though that’s not all they serve). Be sure to arrive early if you want to grab a spot.
JUAREZ/CUAUHTEMOC
This neighborhood, snuggled just between Polanco and Roma/Condesa area, was just starting to bloom while I was living in Mexico, and has really come into its own over the last four years. Since it cannot be overlooked, I invited my friend and editor Pedro Zurita to edit this section. His recommendations below:
I’ve lived in the majority of the neighborhoods described in this guide, but I have to say that my time in Cuauhtémoc over these past two years has been, by far, the best. Its strategic location allows me to walk to most of the other neighborhoods: Polanco, Condesa, Roma, Juárez, and even further, to the city’s historic center. To be able to appreciate one of the city’s most significant monuments, the Angel of Independence, is priceless. These two neighborhoods are divided by Paseo de la Reforma, Mexico’s most well-known avenue, which traces back to Maximiliano I, created to transport him from the Castillo de Chapultepec to the city’s center. Colonia Cuauhtémoc is also called Little Tokyo, given the concentration of the Japanese community recently in this area. Several embassies are located here such as those of the US and UK. There are a mixture of commercial and residential spaces with restaurants such as Rokai and bars like Tokio Music Bar, a speakeasy with music played on turntables and a variety of cocktail options. For a typical cantina-style experience, visit Salón Rios. Looking for an imposing city view? Reserve a table on the terrace of Sofitel’s 38th floor bar. The restaurant at Hotel Carlota offers a menu for those looking for organic and sustainable options. Just in front, in Colonia Juárez, you’ll find more contemporary gastronomic options. Don’t miss breakfast at Niddo. For lunch, pop into Cicatriz, and for dinner, there’s Elly’s, just behind the Four Seasons. In the mood for dancing? Toledo Rooftop’s terrace is the best in the neighborhood. If cocktails and conversations are your thing, then try Xaman or Hanky Panky. In Juárez you’ll also find an artistic offer such as the design gallery, Ago Projects on Paseo de la Reforma, or the contemporary art gallery Karen Huber.
Hotels in the area…
Other restaurants in the neighborhood…
ADDITIONAL MUSEUMS, GALLERIES, ATTRACTIONS
Galeria José Garcia MX
Galeria Kustaa
Casa Luis Barragán (by appointment only)
DAY TRIPS
Xochimilco— A colorful neighborhood located in the southern part of the city, known for its canals on which one can take a “trajinera” (or small gondola-ish boat) throughout the canals while sipping on tequila or micheladas. Keep in mind it’s a full day experience. I sadly never tried this, but know it’s definitely worthwhile if you have time.
Teotihuacán — An ancient city located just north of modern day Mexico City. Its main attractions are the Mesoamerican pyramids (Piramide del Sol y Piramide de la Luna) built in the pre-Columbian Americas. A surreal plan they offer is a tour through hot air balloons. Just five minutes away from the pyramids is the most charming restaurant, Las Grutas.
SHOPPING
La Lagunilla— A huge flea market with great finds.
Mercado del sábado en San Angel— The place to go for typical artesanías.
Tienda del MAP— For souvenirs and gifts to take back home. Offers a more contemporary, design-oriented approach to traditional craftsmanship.
Ikal store— A haven for independent Mexican design.
Void— Vintage luxury finds.
Lago DF— A great selection of Latin American design.
Onora Casa— Hand-made textiles and objects #MadeinMexico.
Trouvé— If you’re looking for decor or furniture.
The Feathered— A curated collection of both Latin and international emerging brands and cult favorites.
El Palacio de Hierro— Mexico’s renown luxury department store.
TANE— A household name in Mexico, which specializes in silver. It’s like the Tiffany & Co. of Mexico.
Studio Ima— An interiors studio and design gallery, by appointment only.
Xinú— For perfumes and candles inspired by the botanicals of the Americas.
Local designer shops include Sandra Weil and Lorena Saravia.