(My)ami, Florida
Miami has a stereotype, and a big one. I’ve challenged it throughout my adult life every time I meet someone who is surprised to learn I was born and raised there. A typical conversation will go something like this:
Person I meet: But you were born in Miami?
Me: Yes, actually my father was born there also.
Person I meet: Oh wowww, I’ve never met anyone who was actually born there. You speak English so well…
Me: Yea, well I’m American, and it was my first language. My family, my friends, we pretty much all do.
Others are often just impressed I’m an articulate and educated human being, as opposed to a permanently tanned club-going narcissist as media tends to portrays Miami natives. To be fair, not all reactions are negative. On the flip side, when I first moved to Mexico, many were flabbergasted as to why I would ever leave Miami in the first place. Why would you move to Mexico if you live in Miami?! As if Miami were the greatest place on earth. I love my hometown, but am well aware of the flaws beneath its sunlit, palm-treelined facade. The truth is, when I receive either reaction, I’m always reminded that no one understands Miami and its many layers quite like a native does.
The trendy hotels and restaurants, spring breaker-filled beaches and coveted boat life is what we’re known for, yet there’s a completely distinctive side to Miami not highlighted in pop culture, and it’s this part of the city us locals know and love (most of the time). While, yes, we most likely spent our teenage years or early 20s clubbing on the beach, and enjoy an afternoon at Miami Design District or a beach day at Soho Beach House here and there, that’s not where we’re spending most of our lives. The latter two didn’t even exist when I was growing up. They’re part of a new, albeit cool, Miami, but are not in the foreground of our weekly rituals, or in my case, visits back home.
I’m often asked for city guides on my hometown, yet as nearly 10 years have passed since I’ve lived there, I now leave that task to my sister and close friends in the industry when necessary. In fact, the longer I live abroad, the more I crave those not necessarily trendy establishments I grew up with. So, in tune with that thought, I’ve listed 11 insider tips for anyone curious to discover a more authentic Miami experience.
The Biltmore Hotel— I grew up a few blocks away from this landmark hotel, and would spend weekends here as a child learning to swim in its olympic-sized pool (once deemed the largest pool in the world). In contrast to the brand new Brickell skyscrapers, this building has its history. Built initially by George Merrick, founder of Coral Gables, in 1926, the hotel served as a military hospital during World War II. It was also the first outpost for the University of Miami before eventually becoming a hotel again in the 80s. I took it for granted when younger, but as I travel around the world and come back here, I’m continuously in awe of its uniqueness. While Coral Gables is not generally a tourist destination, the Biltmore is worth a visit, even if it’s just for coffee or brunch. I’ll often come here with my mom and sister when back home, and it always feels like a vacation. There are several restaurants to choose from, my personal favorites being outdoors at the poolside Cascade restaurant or the courtyard at Fontana. The 19th hole is also really charming for breakfast with its view of their famous golf course. The spa is a plus, if that’s your thing. (For other landmarks built by George Merrick, check out Venetian Pool, built in what was once a coral rock quarry. It’s particularly worth a visit, if you have kids).
Calle Ocho— While this one is in many tourist books, and in recent years has made a comeback, I have to mention it from a local’s perspective. As the daughter of a Cuban immigrant, this street holds a special place in my heart. The more I live abroad, the more I appreciate Calle Ocho’s unique charm and authenticity, and its symbolic significance for the Cuban expat community. Growing up in Miami, I never really appreciated the city’s Cuban influence with its ventanita culture (sidewalk windows) where you can order a cafecito and croquetas to go, but now it’s a mandatory stop and likely the first meal I’ll ask for on any visit back home. I never realized how much I’d miss Cuban food while living abroad. When visiting, I’d suggest having a proper Cuban meal for lunch at Versailles, then popping over across the street to La Carreta for a cafecito (they make the best in my opinion). Later stroll down the street to Azucar for ice cream before heading to the domino park, where you can peak in on the local elder Cubans playing a game of dominoes while reminiscing about the good old days in La Habana. Top off the day with a drink and live music at Ball & Chain or Hoy Como Ayer. If you’re looking for an off the beaten path type of stay in Miami, the new boutique Life House Hotel in the neighborhood is a good option.
Coconut Grove— My second home. I pretty much grew up between Coral Gables and Coconut Grove. In the early 90s, the latter was the place to be, as a haven for creatives, it represented a bohemian lifestyle in the heart of the city. It is actually the oldest neighborhood in the Miami-Dade area. Located just near Biscayne Bay, it’s where we spent our summers at a sailing camp nearby, and as an adolescent, it’s where we’d hang out at the movies sans parental supervision. During my college and post-college years, we spent our nights barhopping around the neighborhood. It was the only other option that existed when you weren’t up for a night on the beach. Its trendiness faded for a while, but is once again having a moment with the opening of hotels and restaurants like Cipriani-owned Mr. C and Bellini. In any case, it never really went off the radar for locals. In fact, when I first moved out of my parents home, it’s here where I wanted to live, and found a charming little apartment in a building called Peacock Inn, appropriately named given the peacocks that may cross your path at any point on the streets here. Although now you may have more reasons to venture into the Grove, I encourage you to try it the local way. Have brunch at Green Street Café, grab a cafecito at Chug’s, then bike ride down Ingraham Highway (there’s a farmer’s market on the weekends worth checking out). Book a tour at Kampong Gardens (see next). And if you’re feeling ambitious, continue bike riding to South Miami for ice cream at Whip n Dip, a true locals hangout.
Other good restaurants in the Grove include:
Last Carrot (for something quick and healthy)
The Kampong— In all honesty, I discovered this gem in my 20s, but it’s a glorious place that I’m proud to have in Miami. The former winter estate of famed horticulturist David Fairchild and his wife Marian (daughter of Alexander Graham Bell) is now a National Tropical Botanical Garden open to the public by appointment only. Of the five National Tropical Botanical Gardens, this is the only one outside of Hawaii, and consists of nine acres of exotic flora which Fairchild brought to the US from his travels around the world. An interesting place to visit not only for the tropical vegetation, but also the history and unique view of Biscayne Bay.
Hillstone’s— Come here for the best artichoke dip and cheeseburger, arguably, in the Southeast US. Hillstone’s, formerly known and sometimes still referred to as Houston’s, is a non-negotiable stop, at least once, on any of my trips to Miami. It’s comfort food that feels like home, and a no-brainer restaurant when trying to decide where to eat with friends. Expect a wait because 9 out of 10 times there is one.
Joe’s Take Away— Another secret I discovered later on in life while working at Ocean Drive magazine just down the street from Joe’s. When season came around, we would order from Joe’s Take Away just next door to the restaurant cheating it’s no reservation policy and avoiding the hours-long wait to be seated. Plus, you can eat your meal right on the beach if you’d like, which in my opinion, is even better than a seat at the table.
North Miami Beach—A more low-key option when looking for a day at the beach. My father lives up here, and I love coming to this beach. We often have lunch at the Carillon Hotel (previously Canyon Ranch), a wellness resort with a delicious (and healthy) beachfront restaurant called The Strand, then walk over to Sazón for Cuban coffee afterwards.
Sweat Records— For music lovers, a landmark old school record store in Little Haiti, another neighborhood that, much like Calle Ocho, has been around forever and is now up and coming.
Arbetter’s Hot Dogs— The best hot dog in Miami. This is the real deal local’s hole in the wall— like my mom and dad came here growing up.
Miami’s Best Pizza— As its name suggests, literally, Miami’s best pizza. Just across from the University of Miami, it’s simple in terms of ambiance, but an all-time student and local favorite.
Sir Pizza— In the event you find yourself in Key Biscayne, the best place to go after a day at the beach. Comes in as tied or a close second to Miami’s Best (depending on who you ask) for the best slice in town. Local tip: Ask for ranch dressing to dip your pizza in.
Of course this is just a handful of select places from a lifelong’s worth list of discovery. Miami is a big city, and not necessarily easy to get around, but these recommendations are easily accessible if staying in Brickell, Downtown or on the beach.
Also, I can’t write this list without mentioning the following favorites. Although more ubiquitous on official city guides, they’re still locals-approved:
Mandolin Bistro in Design District— Delicious everything— food, ambiance and service. I like to come here with larger groups, but suggest making reservations.
The Standard— Best sunset drinks.
Soho House— Just because.
Via Emilia 9— Great non-pretentious Italian restaurant on the beach.
Nóstimo Greek Kitchen— Delicious gyros made by a Greek for Greek food lovers.
Broken Shaker at the Freehand Hotel— Will always love its Wes Anderson-ish vibe.