Panama City, Panama
Since moving to Bogota four years ago, I’ve traveled so frequently to Panama, people often think I’ve moved here instead. There are many reasons for this, which include both work and my husband’s family, but personally, I always welcome a warm escape. Born and raised a Miami girl, I haven’t shaken my penchant for blazing sun and humidity, and Panama’s close proximity to Bogota (1.5 hour flight) means it’s easily accessible. There’s something about the climate and laid back Caribbean attitude that make all my visits, even if work-related, feel like a vacation.
As a US citizen, the thing I find so comforting about Panama is its balance of familiarity with things related to home (Miami) yet with an authentically Latin essence. Go to a supermarket and you’ll find all the same products as one would at a US grocery store, something I’ve missed while living in Mexico and Colombia. It has a dollarized economy and many people speak English, which makes travel for foreigners a breeze. But ask someone for an address, and you might be shocked to find that they kind of don’t exist here, at least not in the traditional sense. You’ll get something more like “the tall building on X street in Punta Pacifica”.
What’s interesting about Panama is despite its strategic role in the Americas due in large part to the Panama Canal, its capital only recently came into its own as a full on cosmopolitan city with gastronomic and cultural offers.…and very quickly. Just a few years ago, half of the places on this guide didn’t exist, and I’m sure in a few years, I’ll be adding a completely new slew of recommendations.
Where to Stay?
What to Eat?
You’ll find the majority of my guide consists mostly of restaurants. Truth be told, my only experience of nightlife here is gastronomical, meaning my wildest nights peak at finishing a bottle of wine or two at a restaurant. Throughout the years I’ve tried many, while also returning often to our favorite classics, which you can see below.
Donde Jose— An award-winning multi sensory experience imagined by Panamanian chef José Olmedo Carles, who was trained in Melbourne. This small, dimly lit restaurant offers an itinerant fixed menu with dishes inspired by Panama’s rich cultural identity. Must reserve in advance as tables are limited.
Fonda Lo que hay— Another project by José Carles together with Fulvio Miranda, this casual lunch spot is inspired in local Panamanian street food, where they serve “lo que hay” or whatever there is. Order at the counter, but expect a wait, as this place is always busy and with reason.
The Dining Room— The restaurant inside the American Trade Hotel. Like everything else inside this hotel, the ambience is absolute perfection. It’s a favorite for weekend brunch.
Laboratorio Madrigal— Ideal for dinner, this is a livelier venue with international fare and a variety of cocktails. Though the name sounds trendy, the food is legit and the vibe is welcoming.
Tomillo— The dreamiest of venues, this restaurant is located amongst the ruins of an ancient building in Casco Viejo. The menu, created by Panamanian chef Felipe Milanes, offers Panamanian and Central American flavors with an international twist.
Ocho y medio— The tropical interpretation of a brasserie. Perfect for dinner or drinks with friends on the terrace.
Intimo— As its name suggests, this restaurant offers an intimate atmosphere for a romantic dinner. Their philosophy centers on locally sourced ingredients. Reservations recommended.
Casa Escondida— Just down the block from Intimo in the San Francisco neighborhood is the cutest little house that will surely catch your eye. That’s how I discovered it, in fact, after eating next door and spotting it on the way home. And because you sometimes can judge a book by its cover, the food is delicious, as well. Think comfort food with a good glass of wine.
Maito— Now a Panamanian institution. No trip to Panama is complete without eating at this restaurant by chef Mario Castrellón with scrumptious gourmet Panamanian dishes created with 100% local produce.
Brutto— The ideal restaurant for a night out with friends. Modern decor with a good crowd and lively ambience.
Il Tula— Arguably the best Italian restaurant in the city. Not trendy at all, but solid, traditional Italian recipes are guaranteed.
Makoto— Hands down best Japanese restaurant in Panama. Also boasts a terrace with an enviable city view. After dinner, plan for a nightcap at their clandestine Yokocho bar.
La Casa del Marisco—Privy to some of the best catches in the region, when in Panama City, one must enjoy a proper seafood dish (or ten). This restaurant is a time-honored locals spot serving only the freshest pescados y mariscos.
Market— Delicious American comfort food in the heart of Panama City.
Azafrán— Inside a quiet, cozy house, chef Alvaro Perrino concocts a daily menu based on the ingredients he finds in the market that day.
Acha— Brought to you by the owners of La Casa del Marisco, this is its younger, cooler sibling. Similar menu, but with a more contemporary vibe in Costa del Este.
Meet Me For Coffee
Athanasiou— With outposts throughout the city, this coffee shop and bakery quickly became a local favorite. Also an option to grab a quick lunch.
Café Unido— Probably Panama’s most recognizable coffee brand, they also have locations throughout the capital, with my personal favorite being their Casco Viejo set-up inside the American Trade.
Can I Offer You A Drink?
Strangers Club— Cool, cozy and contemporary. Also offers tapas, though don’t come hungry, as its speciality is cocktails with friends.
La Azotea— Perfect place for cocktails at sundown given their rooftop with one of the most privileged city views.
Yakocho Bar by Makoto— A clandestine bar inside Makoto.
Indoor Workout
Fitology— A boutique fitness studio, whose founders coined the Watchmat Method workouts. Here you can also sign up for barre and dance classes. Make sure you try their delicious Fitbar post workout.
Teach Me Something New
Casco Viejo— As the historic center of Panama, this neighborhood is my personal favorite because of its colonial architecture. When I first visited Panama 8 years ago, this area was just up and coming with only a handful of restaurants. Today, it has become one of Latin America’s most coveted places to visit. Spend a day here strolling through the streets where you can pop in and out of shops and restaurants.
Museo de Biodiversidad— Built by world-renown architect Frank Gehry (whose wife is Panamanian) this museum focuses on Panama’s natural history.
Museo de la Mola— Learn more about the Kuna indigenous community and their famed traditional handmade textiles known as mola.
Panama Canal— A must visit to truly understand Panamanian history and the country’s strategic location as the bridge connecting the Americas.
Outdoorsy Options
Despite the humidity, Panama City has a few options to exercise outdoors and discover the city while doing so, just take care to head out in the early hours or late afternoon to avoid heatstroke (no joke). Walk along the Cinta Costera, which runs adjacent to Avenida Balboa and will drop you off at Casco Viejo. Another nice walk is down the Amador Causeway, where you are enveloped by views of the ocean. I’ve also heard about the hike up to Cerro Ancón although I haven’t tried it myself.
Visit Panama La Vieja, a World Heritage Site. Here you can see the ruins of the original Panama City, which was attacked and burned down by pirate Henry Morgan in 1670.
Despite its oceanfront location, unfortunately there are no beaches in Panama City, and yet the warm, humid climate might leave you yearning for an ocean dip. A few options to remedy that longing include taking a ferry to Isla Contadora for the day. While it mostly consists of vacation homes where the locals escape to on weekends and holidays, if you’re looking to stay a night or two, I suggest checking out 4 Elements Hotel.
Buenaventura is another local favorite reachable by car— a mere two hour drive from the city. Check out Buenaventura Golf & Beach Resort for your stay.
Shopping
Panama boasts a large selection of international brands from high street to luxury. Like the US, it has an indoor mall culture, particularly because of its humid climate. Well-known malls include Multiplaza, Soho Mall and Town Center Costa del Este.
Perhaps because of the presence of these international brands, plus its proximity to the US, the local design scene is limited. That being said, there are cool boutiques and designers to know, many whom have popped up only recently. Since I haven’t explored this realm as much as I’d like to, I’ll keep the shopping recommendations for a future post.